American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Irish Greenland Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Irish Greenland Expedition. A party of seven Irish mountaineers led by Joss Lynam visited the head of Tasermuit Fjord, near Cape Farewell. Though we hoped to spend five weeks climbing in the area, we lost two weeks getting from the airfield to Base Camp, due to the worst pack-ice in 28 years, which held up our journey by 30-foot wooden fishing boat. Base Camp was set up beside the fjord at the foot of the Sermisiaq Glacier on August 2. Advanced Base was at 3100 feet on the glacial platform below the "Cathedral" and "Minister," northeast of the fjord. Camp Z was fixed at 4250 feet beyond Advanced Base, towards Lindenows Fjord. Bad weather twice drove us back to Base, the second time with heavy snowfall. While waiting for conditions to improve, we climbed four 5000-foot peaks on the west side of the fjord. These metamorphic peaks are less interesting that those of granite on the east side. On August 15 the weather improved and we returned to Advanced Base. During the next week we climbed four peaks: "Cathedral” (6990 feet, the highest in the locality) by the southwest arête, climbed by K. Price and N. Lynch; "Tent Peak" (6725 feet), overlooking Lindenows Fjord, by the south ridge from Camp Z, climbed by J. Bent, Price, P. Hill and me; and two other peaks of 5900 feet. We also attempted the "Minister” (6200 feet) but turned back about 600 feet below the top because of friable rock. The party was collected by fishing boat on August 24. Also in the party were F. Doherty and D. Milnes.

Joss Lynam, Irish Mountaineering Club

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