American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Nihon University Greenland Crossing Expedition and Mount Forel

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Nihon University Greenland Crossing Expedition and Mount Forel. Kinju Ikeda, leader, Tsugio Satsukime, Hiroshi Sagano and Tadashi Tawata were the crossing party. Training dogs and in support were Takayashi Oguri, Shoji Sugahara, Hiroshi Nagashima, Kazuo Kojima and Susumu Nakamura. On July 3 they went by Greenlanders’ boat to Semiligaq from Kunmiut and the next day, with ten Eskimo dogs and a ton of baggage, all were landed in the morning and camped on the glacier that night. The sledge journey began on the 5th. On the 9th they reached September Glacier, having crossed three passes and traveled on Stephan and Knud Rasmussen glaciers. They continued along the Habets Glacier over Eskimo Pass to the Glacier de France, which was covered with sand and made sledging laborious. Camp on July 16 was at 7900 feet on the behind Avantgarden Mountain. After a day’s recon- noissance, Ikeda, Oguri, Nagashima, Miyoshi and Sagano took 17 hours on July 18 to climb to the highest summit of Avantgarden (10,630 feet). (This would appear to be the same as the peak the Imperial College party called "Stephensonsbjerg." See A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 182-3.—Editor.) Sugahara, Kojima, Tawata and Nakamura made the second Japanese ascent of Forel (11,024 feet) on July 20. On July 24 they divided into two parties, the support group returning to Kunmiut on August 27. The weather had been favorable until then but the crossing party had to struggle with strong wind and snow every day as they marched west-northwest. On August 6 they climbed Mount Jomfluhen (9886 feet) and then said farewell to the mountainous region. On the 10th they came to the highest point of the crossing at 68° 15' N., 40° W. On the 13th the weather settled and they did 20 miles per day. On the 18th they passed frozen lakes and from there on crossed a number of frozen rivers. On August 28 they reached the fjord and on September 1 they got to Jakobshavn.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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