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North America, Canada, Canadian Coast Range, Homathko Snowfield Peask

Homathko Snowfield Peaks. On July 28, Lucille and Stanley Adamson, John Hall, Daniel Hinckley, Bruce Peterson and I left Campbell River, British Columbia, in two heavily loaded Beaver aircraft for a month-long expedition to the Homathko Snowfield. An airdrop of supplies was made on the upper Cambridge Glacier between Pembroke and Cloister Peaks. After landing at the head of Franklyn Arm on Chilko Lake we ascended the valley of Nine Mile Creek. We crossed the wall at the head of this valley on the northwest side and easily reached the terminus of the Alph Glacier by descending a small, snow-filled valley. We ascended the Alph Glacier and after 3½ days’ travel from the lake established Base Camp at the airdrop site. From here first ascents were made of St. Johns, Cloister and Mist Peaks. We crossed the Homathko Snowfield twice from Sasquatch Pass to the southern end. On the first journey we climbed a peak three miles south of Cambridge Peak which we named "Reed Peak," Plateau Peak and a peak 3¼ miles west of Cambridge Peak which we named "Mazama Peak." These were all new ascents. We also made the second ascent of Mount Grenville by a new route on the north side. On the second traverse we established a camp on the Eva Glacier between Gargoyle and Janus Peaks but bad weather prevented our making any further climbs. The return to Chilko Lake was via our approach route.

George Cummings, Mazamas