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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower, Southwest Face

Mount Eisenhower, Southwest face. When the Calgary Mountain Club erected a bivouac hunt on Mount Eisenhower in 1967 I predicted that the southwest face would see a lot more climbing. The following new routes were put up in 1968: (a) Bass Buttress (Brian Greenwood and Joe Farrand), the wall directly above the hut, just to the right of the large gully. F5. (b) To the right of Bass Buttress there are several small breaks in the cliff, and then a solid wall. To the right of this is a chimney with a cairn below, marking the start of a route climbed by Peter Jackson and Ray Hogan, (c) Gordon Crocker and Heinz Gude intended climbing the ridge which marks the left skyline when looking at the mountain. Actually they climbed the next buttress to the north of this ridge. It gave good, easy climbing on sound rock.

Dick Lofthouse