American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, North West Territories, Logan Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Logan Mountains. Geoff Spedding and I spent five weeks of June and July climbing in the Ragged Range of the Logan Mountains, followed by two weeks on the South Nahanni and Liard rivers, which we descended to Fort Simpson. We flew in by jet helicopter from Cantung Mine, leaving a rubber raft and food cached at the foot of the Cirque of the Unclimbables, another cache at the lakes on the northwest side of Sir James McBrien and ourselves at Gentian Lake some ten miles to the northwest. From Gentian Lake and camps in the adjacent valleys, we climbed Blue Gateway Peak2 by southwest ridge and down north ridge; Bastion of Darkness2 by south ridge; east peak1 of Ratchet Ridge by south face and east ridge; Galleon Peak1 by east ridge; Morning Star Spire2 by south-face couloir and southeast ridge; and Sundial1 by south crescent ridge. We then moved to the valley northwest of Mount Sir James McBrien where we climbed Sir James McBrien by west ridge to Wechsler’s route and down northwest spur; Parrot Beak Peak2 by Buckingham’s route; Mount Sir Rodney Nobson1, the small peak immediately west-northwest of Sir James McBrien; and the easy granite peak1 west of Sir James McBrien and north of Higher Polymer. We then crossed Cassiope Pass to our last cache and then continued to Fort Simpson by rubber raft with one long portage from Glacier Lake to the Nahanni.

Archibald Simpson, Calgary Mountain Club

1.First ascent.

2. Second ascent.

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