American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Wind River Peak, New Route on the North Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Wind River Peak, New Route on the North Buttress. Late in August, Jim Stoddard and I climbed a gully from the basin west (Black Joe Lake approach) to the notch which separates the final section of Wind River Peak from “Little El Cap” and points north. In three pitches from there we reached the great talus blocks that lead to the true summit. The last of these leads was somewhat of a problem, taking a good deal of time because of verglas, cold hands and awkward piton placement. The rock did not seem especially sound, but it was adequate. The route can easily be identified by the right-slanting crack on the third pitch, just to the right of the buttress corner.

Fred Beckey

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