American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Death Canyon, Chimney of Death

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Death Canyon, Chimney of Death. Mike Yokell and Andy Cox on July 22 climbed this large chimney on the first major buttress east of the Sentinel Turret. It may be identified as directly above the first large boulderfield past the fourth switchback in the trail from the Whitegrass Ranger Station. Two easy pitches of scrambling led to the open-book which starts the climb. After 30 feet in the book, the climb traversed left and up to a belay spot at the end of 80 feet. Following another 80 feet past two belay trees they continued up and right to a dead tree stump partway up the next wall. The next difficult (F7) section went up and right from the stump for 100 feet to an open-book which was climbed to a belay tree. After a rope-length left to another belay tree in a chimney, a short wall led to a bench where the climbers turned left up a difficult (F7) wall and vertical jam-crack. A long lead first in an open-book and then in a chimney ended at an awkward belay on a chockstone. Another 200 feet in the chimney placed the climbers beneath the large roof in the chimney. This problem (F7 or F8) was passed by a short traverse right, then up and over the roof, where a hand traverse led back into the chimney, which was followed to the top. Ten hours were required for this climb from the ranger station.

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