Baboquivari Peak, East Face Direct, Baboquivari Peak is a southern Arizona monolith that towers above the Sonoran desert floor. George Hurley and I took four arduous days to push our 14-pitch route up its 1000-foot overhanging east face, completing the ascent on April 8. From Riggs Ranch, 55 miles south-southwest of Tucson, hike to within 400 feet of the head of Thomas Canyon; then go up and left along rock gullies to gain Lion Ledge (named for the cougar we saw on it), which cuts across the east face 300 feet above the ground. Near the middle of the wall, on the ledge, is a spring. (Baboquivari is a Papago Indian word meaning “water on the mountain.”) The climb starts at a tree, 35 feet south of the spring. Climb the tree, bend its top branch towards the wall, reach a crack, and nail (A3) up and left for 75 feet. Belay in slings at a bolt. Climb up and right to a 4-bolt traverse and nail up under an overhang, then down and right around a small corner to a 2-bolt anchor. On the 3rd pitch go up and left (A4) for 85 feet to a very exposed 2-bolt hanging belay. Continue up and slightly right (A4) for 65 feet to two bolts at a small stance. On the 5th pitch climb up and left in an obvious 120-foot groove (F7, A4). Then climb up and right along a crack for 70 feet to 2 bolts. Continue up and right around an overhanging lip to a small tree, which marks the end of 500 feet of terribly overhanging wall. From the tree climb up and left, fourth class, for 120 feet to a pine (a feasible bivouac spot). Climb directly up a recessed scoop via easy free climbing; belay where an aid crack traverses right. Climb right and up (A3) to a brushy ledge. Continue up and left (free and aid) past a small pine into an overhanging dihedral. Nail up this (A4) to a 2-bolt belay in slings. Continue up the dihedral to a tight chimney which leads to a spacious ledge with a gnarled pine on its lip. The remainder of the climb goes free. Scramble up and left along a brushy gully. From its top, climb an eroded quartz vein (F6) for 50 feet and traverse left into another brush-choked gully. From a boulder at its head, step onto the wall and climb up and left on easy friction, wiggle up between blocks and brush, and move right onto the face where bucket holds lead over a small overhang. Scramble the remaining feet to the summit. We used 65 pitons, ranging from rurps to a 4-inch bong with a slight emphasis on long blades, standard angles and Leepers. NCCS VI, F7, A4.

William Forrest, Unaffiliated