Half Dome, South Face. In November, Warren Harding and I made our third attempt on the unclimbed back side of Half Dome. This most alpine of Yosemite’s walls cannot be seen except from points reached by trail. The base of the wall is near 7000 feet elevation compared to 3900 feet at the base of E1 Capitan. Being devoid of continuous crack systems and relatively inaccessible as Valley walls go, it waited untouched until 1966. Our first attempt failed 50 feet from the ground when Yvon Chouinard injured his shoulder trying a layback. The second attempt, one week later, was a five-day alpine style push which ended after a rainstorm and a dropped bolt bag dictated retreat. Our latest attempt included several advances in big wall equipment and technique. Special waterproof tent-hammocks which zipped shut and were designed to hang comfortably from a single point of suspension. Instead of straight bolt ladders we alternated bolts with rows of several “bat hooks” or ground-down cliff hangers designed to slip into half drilled bolt holes. In one place Warren actually led up eight bat hooks before placing a real bolt. This method cuts in half the time necessary for covering blank sections. We also used specially constructed hauling bags which were compartmented inside to keep heavy and angular goods away from the outside of the bag. They were also constructed so that goods can be easily removed while the bag is hanging on an anchor. Even this equipment could not save us from an unforcasted fall storm which hit us on our fifth night. Water draining down the wall soon soaked us to the skin through our “waterproof” tent- hammocks. We guessed the storm to be short-lived and radioed our support party that we would try to wait it out. After two days and nights of suffering we radioed our support party that things were grim and we had numb fingers and toes. We were in no condition to continue even if the sun had suddenly shown. Our support party capably arranged a rescue through the National Park Service and although we did not know it because our radio was dead, by dusk the helicopter which had buzzed us earlier landed a party on top with thousands of feet of rope and other necessary equipment. Even though it was dark, they went ahead with the rescue, and as we were anticipating our seventh night on the wall, Royal Robbins reached us after being lowered 700 feet. We prusiked to the top, spent a comfortable night in dry clothes and sleeping bags and were evacuated by helicopter the next morning. We are already planning another attempt in the spring. The climb has used about 250 pitons and 70 bolts so far.

Galen Rowell