University Peak, Northeast Face. The unclimbed slabs of the northeast face of bulky University Peak glistened as Joe Brown, Dan Clements, and I hiked up the popular Kearsarge Pass Trail, and then veered off to Slim Lake to camp. It seemed strange that this peak, one of the most common ascents in the Sierra, had seen no technical climbing before we ascended it on July 14. Lower rock gullies proved a nuisance; a shower of loose rock broke as the rucksack was being hauled. Joe was hit hardest, but he felt good enough later to lead the best pitch. This was an enjoyable little problem with suitable piton protection and a surprise bit of gymnastics up an overhanging crack that looked perplexing (or all aid) until one did it. Above that, I had fun with cracks and dihedrals. They went on and on—but they went. We had chosen in a previous study with the glasses the best route through the central area of slabs, which barely went without aid. After some bumbling “off route,” Dan located the right combination of cracks and zig-zags on a very enjoyable section of the rock. Near the crest of the lower northeast summit we unroped and romped on to the true top. NCCS III, F7.

Fred Beckey