American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Premiere Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Premiere Buttress. The first climb of this sloping, rounded buttress, just above the last road switchback at Whitney Portal, was made on November 17 by Brian Gochoel and me in 5½ leads. The rock is excellent granite, with numerous chickenheads that make friction climbing possible over the entire route except at a 4-bolt ladder. We used 9 pitons and 5 nuts, plus three additional bolts to protect 5.7 and 5.8 friction slabs.

Fred Beckey

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