American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Chilkoot Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Chilkoot Range. George Barnett, Dr. Russell Batt, William Bendy, Dr. Jurgen Meyer-Arendt, Dan Reeder, Dr. Thomas Stengle, Charles Warren and I as leader climbed in the Chilkoot range along the international boundary adjacent to the south branch of the Meade Glacier about 40 miles southeast of Skagway. We made the following first ascents: Mount Poletica (Boundary Peak 102; 7620 feet) on May 19 by Barnett, Meyer-Arendt, Nielson, Stengle and May 31 by Barnett, Batt, Reeder, Warren via northeast knife-edged snow ridge; Sparrow Peak* (6630 feet; two miles northeast of Poletica in British Columbia) on May 24 by Barnett, Meyer-Arendt, Nielsen, Stengle via south ridge; Mount Stacie* (c. 7300 feet; two miles northwest of Poletica in British Columbia) on May 25 by Barnett, Batt, Stengle via south face; Mount Service* (Boundary Peak 101; 7847 feet) on May 28 by whole party by both east face and northeast ridge; Bicorn Peak* (north summit; two miles east of Service in British Columbia) on May 29 by Bendy, Meyer-Arendt, Stengle via east face; Bicorn Peak (south summit) on May 29 by Barnett, Batt, Warren via north ridge; Mount Mislop* (Boundary Peak 103; 7164 feet) on June 4 by Barnett, Batt, Stengle, Warren via northwest ridge; Mount Canning (east summit; c. 6990 feet) on June 7 by Batt, Bendy, Nielsen, Stengle, Warren by south face. On June 7, Batt, Bendy, Stengle, Warren and I made the second ascent of Mount Canning (Boundary Peak 105; 6967 feet) by its east ridge and descended the south face. The first ascent was made in 1907 by the International Boundary Commission party led by O. M. Leland. Their copper bolt and stovepipe marker are still intact. A storm defeated an attempt on Mount Brackett (c. 7400 feet) on the west side of the Meade Glacier about 12 miles west of Mount Poletica on June 2.

Lawrence E. Nielsen

* Names submitted to U. S. and Canadian governments for approval. Other names are already official.

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