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North America, United States, Alaska, Attempt on Mount St. Elias

Attempt on Mount St. Elias. From July 1 to 14 Bob Baker, Hans Müller, Gary Rose, Ted Schotten, Tom Stewart, Hall Williams and I as leader reconnoitered the northern approach to the west ridge of St. Elias with the hope of possibly climbing the peak over this route. Consistently bad weather, however, created slab avalanche dangers that prevented our being successful without taking undue risks. We climbed three smaller peaks during brief clearings of the weather. One, climbed by the entire party on July 6, was marked on the USGS Quad. Bering Glacier as The Hump, probably climbed by a Colorado group in 1966 (12,375 feet). The other two are essentially on the north ridge of Mount Huxley and probably first ascents. One (c. 10,900 feet) was climbed on July 9 by Muller, Schotten and Stewart and the other (c. 11,400 feet) on July 10 by Rose, Williams and me.

Hans A. Zogg, Mountaineers