American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Bona

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Mount Bona. On May 19 Jack Wilson, assisted by Ken Bunch, landed our party at 10,100 feet on the Klutlan Glacier. Because of deep snow, Bunch could not get off until the next morning when the snowshoed runway had hardened. As he winged his way out, the weather closed in behind him as a prelude to the general weather pattern for the duration of our climb. Heading northwest toward a point a mile east of Mount Churchill, we established camps at 11,600 and 13,600 feet. On May 23 we turned southwest, skirted south of P 14,916 and camped at 14,800 feet, east of Bona. The 24th dawned clear with only a single lenticular cloud over the summit of Bona. Snow on the east ridge was hard packed to about 600 feet below the summit, where it deteriorated to a rotten crevassed snowfield. All seven, Barney Seiler, leader, Leo Hannan, Mike Hunt, John Ireton, John Todd, Peter Vlasveld and I, completed the sixth ascent of Mount Bona (16,421 feet) at 2:05 p.m. in deteriorating weather. Inclement weather precluded an ascent of Mount Churchill. We were airlifted from the glacier on May 28.

Norman Stadem, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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