American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks Above Ruth Glacier, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Peaks Above Ruth Glacier, Alaska Range. We Swiss, Heinz Aleman and I, were in the Ruth Glacier region from July 21 to August 5. On July 21, shortly after midnight, we reached the summit of P 11,300, which is 2½ miles north of Huntington across the west fork of the Ruth. The rock climbing on the southwest ridge was difficult in spots and the summit ice slope could be climbed only at night because the ice was in bad condition except when it was cold enough. We descended the south ridge. A traverse of the south ridge of the Southeast Spur was too risky because of snow conditions and on July 24 we turned back after climbing P 10,370. On the Swiss national holiday, August 1, in fog and snow we reached the summit of P 9090, east of the Ruth Amphitheater and 2½ miles north of the Moose’s Tooth, we climbed and descended the northeast ridge. We climbed P 8010 north of the Moose’s Tooth on August 3. All were first ascents. Aside from my falling 35 feet into a crevasse, all went well on the whole expedition.

Niklaus Lötscher, Schweizer Alpen Club

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