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Asia, Afghanistan, Bandaka, 1966

Bandaka, 1966. Too late for inclusion in A.A.J., 1967 came word of an unsuccessful attempt on Bandaka. A group of students from Marseille, Vincent Bourges, P. Vidaillet, G. Dawson, F. Menniot and R. Lankester, failed about 500 feet from the summit after establishing two high camps.

Koh-i-Yajun. The five-man Hiroshima University Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Toshoio Ohtani. They left Kabul on July 11 and on July 22 reached Nao in the Munjan valley four kilometers downstream from where the Yajun empties into the Munjan. Base Camp was established on July 25 at 10,000 feet near the mouth of the Yajun valley. Camp I was on the glacier at 13,950 feet. They pitched Camp II at 17,225 feet on July 30. On the 31st, driving pitons, they climbed up to the ridge, but were prevented from getting to the very crest by an overhang. On August 2 Akio Funabashi and Masanori Ishida left Camp II at 5:30 A.M. and at seven o’clock reached the foot of a couloir that descends from the upper ridge which divides the two glaciers. They reached the head of the couloir at two P.M., having had trouble with rotten snow covering hard ice underneath. They climbed on for one more hour, breathing hard, but were forced to bivouac at 19,000 feet without tent or sleeping bags. On the 3rd the weather was fine. They left their small rock shelf at 5:45 and reached the ridge at seven. Turning to the right and traversing the knife-edge, they finally found themselves on the top of Koh-i-Yajun (19,764 feet; also previously called PY) at 9:15. After an hour on top, they descended by the same couloir, rappelling continuously. They left the couloir at six P.M. and were back in Camp II an hour later. On August 5 Yajun 3 (18,700 feet) was climbed by Masunaga and Hirai. This peak is a kilometer southwest of the main peak.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club