Mali-ka-Parbat, Kaghan Valley. This highest and most prominent peak in the Kaghan Valley has a southern (17,356 feet) and a northern summit (17,135 feet). The only ascent of the south summit was made in 1940 from Salif-ul-Muluk Lake by British Lieutenants Willoughby and Price. The north summit was first climbed from the north in the early 1930’s by a British officer of a Gurkha regiment, Captain Battye. On July 2 our expedition (Englishmen Trevor Braham and Norman Norris, Americans Gene and Betsy White and son Eric, aged 2½ years, and Pakistani Abdul Rauf) went the 52 miles from Balakot to Naran in two rented jeeps. In Naran we hired three porters, two donkeys and two horses to carry our baggage and my small son. In one day we walked to the village of Battakundi, which is on the Rawalpindi-Gilgit jeep route. Here we left the main valley and went south up the Dadar valley to Dadar, where we established Base Camp. In two days we placed Camp I on the edge of the Chitta Glacier at 12,650 feet, having ascended the Siran and Chitta valleys. In two more days Braham, Norris, Rauf and I were able to occupy Camp II at 15,200 feet. On July 8 Norris and I made the second ascent of the north summit.

Gene F. White