American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gokan Sur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Gokan Sar, An Italian expedition was made up of Carlo Alberto Pinelli, Guido Machetto, Emilio Caruso and Duilio Fiorini. They ascended the Golen Koh valley until they ascended the Sakchioku Glacier to place Base Camp at 13,800 feet. There were two other camps in the steep slopes of Gokan Sar. It was primarily an ice climb with unstable snow and avalanche danger. The most difficult part was a rock band between Camps I and II. On June 27 Pinelli and Machetto reached the summit (6200 meters or 20,342 feet).

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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