American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Chiantar Glacier, Chitral

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Peaks above Chiantar Glacier, Chitral. Alfred Linsbauer, leader, Peter von Gizycki, Wolfgang Greimal and Günter Plötz went by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin, where transport difficulties held them up until the beginning of August. They then crossed the Darkot Pass to the Chiantar Glacier, up which they moved eastward to Base Camp at 15,000 feet. Despite bad weather and lack of time they made some thirteen first ascents in this unclimbed-in region. These were P 5221 or "Shimelig” (17,130 feet; still in Gilgit Agency east of Yasin) July 25 by Linsbauer, Gizycki; Chiantar Central Peak (17,360 feet) August 13 by Gizycki and August 14 by Greimal; Little Chiantar (18,915 feet) August 15 and 16 by Gizyck, Plötz, August 17 by Linsbauer, Greimal, August 26 by all and Hidayat Shah and September 1 by the same; Koh-i-Chiantar (21,050 feet) August 15 by Gizycki, Plötz; P 5590 (18,340 feet) August 22 by Gizycki, Greimel, Plötz; Koh-i-Batzenhäusel East and West (both c. 18,700 feet) August 23 by Linsbauer; P 5300 (17,390 feet) August 23 by Gizyski, Greimel, Plötz; Plateau Peak (19,193 feet) August 27 by Greimel, Plötz; Koh-i-Chhateboi (c. 20,175 feet) August 28 by Linsbauer, Greimel, Plötz; Koh-i-Warghut (20,112 feet) August 31 by all; P 5130 (16,830 feet) September 5 by Gizycki; and P 5360 (17,585 feet) and P 5480 (17,980 feet) September 5 by Greimel, Plötz.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.