American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistan, Attempts on Saraghrar and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Attempts on Saraghrar and Other Peaks. The Bayerland section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was led by Heinz Köbrich, and further composed of Erich Griessl, Walter Kellermann, Sepp Rieser, Jürgen Vogt and Fritz Widerer. Not receiving permission for the Tirich Glacier, where the west summit of Tirich Mir was the objective of a Czech and a Japanese expedition, they went to the Ziwar Gol and the Niroghi Glacier, the starting point of the 1959 Italian Saraghrar expedition. They wanted to climb the south or southeast summits of Saraghrar, but were unsuccessful. They did however climb a large number of peaks on the ridge that extends southeast, dividing the Rosh Gol and Ziwar Gol. They all climbed Sucai Zom (19,593 feet) on July 10 and 12, not a first ascent. They made the following first ascents: Datti Zom (20,473 feet) by all on July 12 and 14, Bavarian Tower (c. 20,080 feet) by Vogt on July 20, Saraghrar Brink (c. 21,650 feet) by Köbrich, Rieser on July 23, Ispandar Sar (19,975 feet) by Kellermann, Vogt, Widerer on July 11 and 30, Aurum Ghoni Zom (18,307 feet) by Griessl, Rieser, Vogt on July 28, Istor Ghuni (three summits: 18,163, 18,111 and 18,111 feet) by same three on July 29, Little Ispandar Sar (19,750 feet) by Vogt on July 30 and Little Sucai Zom (18,504 feet) by Griessl, Rieser, Vogt on July 30.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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