American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Saraghrar South, Udren Zom South

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Saraghrar South, Udren Zom South. Under the leadership of Kenichiro Yamamoto, the Hitotsubashi University Expedition left Chitral on June 27 and established Base Camp at 13,125 feet on the Rosh Gol Glacier on July 4. On the 9th Camp I was placed in the northern cwm of Saraghrar at 17,700 feet. On July 12, while on reconnaissance, Akihiro Ikechi was hit by a big rock and suffered the fracture of his left femur. It took three days to evacuate him to Base Camp, whence he returned home. They decided to discontinue the attack on the Saraghra group for a while. On July 23 Kei Kurachi, Yukitoshi Sato, Hisatoshi Sato and Hirosada Hara climbed to a col on the southern ridge of Udren Zom, where they established a new Camp I at 16,750 feet. Their aim was to climb the nameless peak (6600 meters or 21,654 feet), but they could not climb the southern wall of the col and so they descended to the Udren side and ascended the west ridge of the peak south of the col, pitching Camp II at 18,375 feet on the upper part of the ridge. On August 4 they traversed over the first peak along the long snow and ice ridge to the summit of the nameless peak, which they reached at four P.M. After a bivouac they returned to Camp II the next day and to the col the day after. On August 10, aiming at Udren Zom South (23,130 feet), the same four headed north and established Camp II on a rock shelf at 19,700 feet. On the 11th they stood on top at 1:30 p.m. after a 7½-hour climb. After return to Base Camp, Yukitoshi Sato and Hara started for Saraghrar South (24,115 feet) via its west ridge and face. Their new Base Camp was at 14,750 feet in the valley south of Saraghrar South. Camp I was pitched on August 20 at 17,700 feet and Camp II at 20,750 feet on the 22nd. They bivouacked on the 23rd at 23,000 feet and reached the summit at nine on the morning of August 24. Other members were Yukihisa Miyatake and Dr. Yohji Suzuki.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.