American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia Icecap

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our Argentine-Slovene expedition had as objectives peaks northwest of Lago Argentino. We were Jure Skvarca, Cesarino Fava, Boris Kambic, Luciano Pera and I. My brother and Pera left Buenos Aires on January 2. They were followed by Fava and Kambic, who after a breakdown of communications across Lago Argentino decided to go to the FitzRoy zone where on January 20 they made the first ascent of Cerro Vespignani. Meanwhile my brother and Pera packed up the Upsala Glacier. On January 20 Jure, supported by Pera as far as the final gully, completed solo the difficult first ascent of Cerro Cono (8300 feet). I was unable to get to the Estancia La Cristina until January 23. We three hoped to climb the west face of Cerro Norte, but after ten days of bad weather we did no more than fix rope on the first 1300 feet of ice-encrusted rock wall. To have completed the climb, which I think would be comparable to FitzRoy in difficulty, would have required two days of good weather.

Peter Skvarca, Club Andino Esloveno

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