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South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Illampu, Illimani, Cordillera Real, and Sajama

Ancohuma, Illampu, Illimani, Cordillera Real, and Sajama. In the first part of our stay in Bolivia we intended to climb peaks in the Cordillera Real. Horst Caha and I traveled by truck to Sorata in the northern portion of the range, hoping to climb Ancohuma and Illampu. Hindered by a rather inexact map, on July 17 and 18 we traversed the whole Ancohuma massif from west to east to reach the summit, climbing P 5900 (19,357 feet), Haukaña (20,496 feet) and Ancohuma (21,082 feet), the latter by its northwest ridge. We descended the west face of Ancohuma and returned to Sorata on the 20th. On July 24 we headed toward Illampu from the unclimbed western side, from the Altiplano. We made the first ascent of the southwest face on July 27 and thus the fourth ascent of Illampu (20,873 feet). The 3300-foot wall rose at an angle of 50° to 60° for the first 2300 feet. After our return to La Paz we met an expedition of the Academic Section, Munich, of the DAV and took three* of them with us to make on August 3 the ascent of the south peak of Illimani (21,201 feet), a pleasant climb. Some days later we drove onto the Altiplano to the volcano Sajama (21,424 feet), Bolivia’s highest peak, which we climbed on August 13 by its south face and the adjacent west ridge.

Werner Kabl, Deutscher Alpenverein

*The climbers were Ekke Rubel, Jochen Edrich and Gunther Bram. Two days later the climb was repeated by Peter Mirwald and Hans Huber.