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South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Cordillera Carabaya

Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition climbed in the Nudo Allinccapac. The members were Anthony Bland, Hugh Donohoe, Clive Ogilvie, my wife Elspeth and I as leader. From June 15 to 22, we attempted the south side of Cornice. We approached from Macusani and placed a camp at 15,100 feet. From here two attempts were made on Cornice. On the first, all of us but Donohoe reached 18,000 feet on the Cornice Glacier, where further ascent was prevented by a 20-foot wall of unconsolidated snow overlooking the bergschrund. This was followed by an attempt on the south ridge by all but my wife. Although a magnificent line, this route proved dangerous due to poor snow. From June 30 to July 3 my wife and a porter made the first ascent of "Chichoccapac” (16,800 feet), a peak on the east ridge of still unclimbed Incaccapac. Bland, Donohoe and Ogilvie made the first ascent of the three peaks on the north ridge of Chichiccapac, all three of which were about 16,750 feet. Unfortunately during the greater part of the expedition the weather and consequent snow conditions were bad.

Roger Whewell, British Carabaya Expedition