South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Cordilleras Yauyos

Publication Year: 1968.

Cordillera Yauyos. A group of six Californians climbed during June and July, 1966 in the Cordillera Yauyos, a region visited in 1963 by a Spanish Expedition. (See A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, pp. 209-210.) They approached from the north via the road through Tomas to Alis. With a pack train they ascended the Yupanca Valley to their first Base Camp at the southern end of the valley above Yupanca. One June 18 Ernst Bauer, Carl Heller, Richard Johnson, Charles Ringrose and Robert Westbrook made the first ascent of Ancovilca (17,580 feet) by its south ridge. The next day Bauer climbed Pico Chaluacocha, which had been ascended previously. On June 20 Heller, Johnson, Dennis Lamb and Ringrose made the first ascent of Uman Sur (17,275 feet). While camp was being moved north, Heller and Johnson climbed Pico Chaca to reconnoiter the Pumahuasin group. On June 22 the whole party climbed Pumahuasin Central. (17,150 feet) and the next day all but Westbrook climbed Pumahuasin Norte (17,525 feet). On the 26th all the climbers ascended Uman Norte (17,480 feet). Their final first ascent was that of Pumahuasin Sur (17,325 feet), made on June 28 by Bauer and Heller. They then moved west into the area which the Spaniards had climbed in 1963. On June 30 Bauer and Heller repeated the climb of the 17,385-foot mountain called Pica d’Estats by the Spaniards, for which the Californians give the name Padrecaca. On July 1 Cutuni (19,025 feet) was climbed from the west by Bauer and Johnson, repeating the Spanish route, while the rest made a difficult new route from the east.