South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Cordilleras Yauyos and Central

Publication Year: 1968.

Cordilleras Yauyos and Central. Ekke Rubel, leader, Günther Bram, Peter Mirwald, Jochen Edrich, Hans Huber, Axel von Hillebrandt and I took the railroad from Lima to Huancayo, where we changed to a hired bus to get to Alis, north of the Yauyos. There, after four days of unsuccessfully trying to hire burros, we split up. The two geologists, Mirwald and von Hillebrandt, went up the upper valley of the Río Cañete with three donkeys that were finally found. For three weeks they surveyed the northern part of the Yauyos group, where Spaniards had climbed in 1963 and Californians in 1966. They made the following first ascents there: Pacarin* (17,192 feet) on June 12 by Mirwald; Yana Salla Ccorancata* (17,061 feet) on June 14 by Hillebrandt; Lancoc* (16,404 feet) on June 17 by Hillebrandt. Meanwhile we five mountaineers hired a truck in Alis to take us north to the region of the Nevado Tunshu (Cochas range), west of Huancayo. We placed Base Camp at 14,450 feet on Azulcocha on June 8. We stayed for about six weeks, climbing 23 peaks of which 14 are thought to be first ascents. These included Jaico I (16,601 feet; 28) on June 9 by Rubel, Bram, Edrich, Huber; Mañon III* (17,356 feet; 33) on June 11 by the same four; Tembladera (18,358 feet; 31) on June 12 by Rubel, Huber; Tatatunshu* (17,241 feet; 1) on skis on June 15 by Rubel, Bram, Edrich, Huber, Jahl; Tranca* (17,618 feet; 22) on June 17 by the same five; Tembladera from the south onJune 19 by Hillebrandt, Mirwald; Nevado S 17* (17,750 feet; 26) on June 21 by Rubel, Jahl; Tuyujuto (18,373 and 18,471 feet; 34 and 35) on June 23 by Huber, Edrich; unnamed peak* (16,945 feet; 36) on June 23 by Rubel, Bram, Jahl; Pacca I* and II* (17,717 and 17,736; 13 and 14) on June 27 by Rubel, Bram, Mirwald, Edrich, Huber, Jahl; unnamed peak (17,061 feet; 37) on June 23 by Hillebrandt; Shallanca* (17,717 feet; 11) on June 30 by Bram, Rubel, Huber, Mirwald, Jahl; Pyramid Peak* (17,290 feet; 21) on June 30 by Hillebrandt; Twins* (17,159* and 17,273* feet; 8 and 9) on July 1 by Rubel, Huber, Mirwald, Edrich, Bram, Jahl; Jaico II* (17,061 feet; 29) on July 1 by Hillebrandt; Tatajaico (18,111 feet; 27) on July 6 by Hillebrandt, Bram; Juanita (17,717 feet; 30) on July 6 by Rubel, Jahl, Mirwald, Huber, Edrich; Mañon II* (17,340 feet; 32) on July 8 by Hillebrandt, Jahl, Bram, Mirwald; Tunshu (18,258* and 18,537 feet; 4 and 5) on July 9 by Edrich, Mirwald, Huber; Colquepucro (18,373 feet; 20) on July 10 by Bram, Hillebrandt. There are no reliable sources for the names of the mountains and even the natives often have no names for them or do not know them.

Christian Jahl, Deutsches Alpenverein

*The asterisk indicates a first ascent. The numbers show the location of the peaks on the sketch map.