El Toró or Yerupajá Chico and Other Peaks, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition consisted of Toyoaki Arai, Moriaki Honda, Takachika Akino, Tateo Miyata and myself as leader, as well as the Peruvian porter Sergio Callupe of Pocpa. We left Chiquián on June 11 and returned there on July 21. We went over the Punta (pass) Tapsh and via Huayllapa to the Río Seria and Base Camp I. On June 23 Honda, Akino and I climbed Tsacra Chico Norte (18,088 feet) from a high camp on the col between Rasac Oeste and the Tsacra group. With one bivouac above Base Camp Arai and Akino climbed Rosario Norte (18,360 feet) via its east ridge on June 26. Honda and Miyata climbed Seria Central (18,186 feet) on June 27 from Base Camp. An attempt on Tsacra Chico (18,254 feet) via the south glacier failed because of bad snow and one on Rasac Oeste (18,701 feet) via the west face was stopped at 17,500 feet by a great crevasse. We moved to Base Camp II on Carhuacocha via the Quebrada Huanacupatai, Punta Cuyoc, Laguna Viconga, Portachuelo de Huayhuash and Punta Carnicero. From a high camp at 15,400 feet on the Yerupajá Glacier, Honda and Akino on July 14 climbed El Toro or Yerupajá Chico (20,082 feet) with two bivouacs. During this climb the weather was bad and snow fell. Santa Rosa or P 5085 (16,683 feet), east of Yerupajá, was climbed on July 16 by Honda, Callupe and me from a Yerupajá Glacier camp. We failed twice on Jirishanca Chico (17,937 feet) because of bad weather and bad snow, both times at about 17,000 feet.
Tadaki Ichikawa, Tokyo Hakuryo-kai