American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The Scientific Expedition of the University of Shizuoka was led by Ryuichi Tsuchi and composed of Ryozo Yamamoto, Mayumi Takahashi, Takeshi Sugimoto, Tom Wada, Kinya Ota, Hiroshi Ando, and Dr. Asaji Kokue. They collected insects, mainly butterflies and moths, shells, fossils and rocks and plants, some of these on the shores of the Carribbean. They came up the Río Donachuí to place Base Camp for their climbing in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta on July 1 at 14,600 feet north of Lago Naboba. They climbed until August 4. They ascended the following, which had all been done before: Pico Bolivar (18,947 feet) on July 28 by Ando and Wada via northeast ridge, Pico Cristóbal Colón (18,947 feet) on July 13 by Ando, Ota and Yamamoto, Pico Simons (18,570 feet) on July 20 by Ando and Yamamoto via south ridge, “Santander” (18,176 feet; 1 km southeast of Bolívar), P 5430 meters (17,815 feet; between Bolívar and Simons) both on July 26 by Ota and Yamamoto, La Reina (18,160 feet) and Ojeda (18,012 feet) on July 31 by Ando and Ota, El Profesor (17,454 feet) on July 20 by Ando and Yamamoto, Nueva Vista (16,995 feet) on July 21 by Ando and Yamamoto, and Nieve de Naboba (17,257 feet) on July 31 by Yamamoto. The following were first ascents: P 5360 (17,586 feet; 1½ kms north of Bolívar), “Tesoro” (17,061, 16,995 and 16,978 feet; three peaks on ridge running northwest from Simons, the first of which is 2 kms northwest of Simons) on July 21 by Ota and Wada; P 5000 and P 5030 (16,404 and 16,503 feet; farther west on the same ridge, 4 kms northwest of Simons) on July 22 by Ota, Wada and Yamamoto; P 4880 (16,011 feet), P 4920 (16,142 feet), P 4980 (16,339 feet), P 4940 (16,208 feet), P 4970 (16,306 feet), P 4895 ( 16,060 feet), P 4875 (15,994 feet), P 4880 (16,011 feet) (from west to east, all on ridge which forms T with ridge running northwest from Simons); P 4890, P 4920, and P 4980 (16,044, 16,142, and 16,339 feet; from west to east on ridge which runs parallel to and between the ridge just mentioned above and the Simons-Professor-Nueva Vista ridge; the last mentioned is 2 kms north of Nueva Vista.)

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

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