American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, British Army Mountaineering Association Expedition to West Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

British Army Mountaineering Association Expedition to West Greenland. An eight-man expedition mounted by the Army Mountaineering Association spent six weeks in the Ikamiut area near Sukkertoppen from late July to early September. The area had previously been visited by a number of expeditions and most recently by the very successful St. Andrews University party in 1965. Nonetheless there remained a number of worthy peaks to be climbed, including “Wedding Cake,” so named by the St. Andrews group, which had so far repulsed all attempts to reach its summit. Operating from Base Camp at the head of Lake Tasensuaq (65° 47' N, 52° 25' W), we climbed 16 peaks, including “Wedding Cake” (P 1755 meters, 5758 feet; 65° 45½' N, 52° 37' W) ascended by Sergeant T. J. Lynch, Warrent Officer B. Martindale and Lieutenant A. A. Scarlsbrick; we made a new route on P 2060 (6759 feet; 65° 50' N, 52° 11' W) as well as climbing one other “old” mountain, P 1190 (3904 feet; 65° 50' N, 52° 44' W). We also carried out a limited scientific programme and in the course of the expedition made several journeys on foot, ski and by canoe. Our plans were curtailed by extremely bad weather in the second half and to some extent by sickness and accident: Major H. G. Jenks was evacuated to the United Kingdom with a suspected ulcer and Lieutenant T. D. Thompson sustained a fall on a reconnaissance of “Wedding Cake” in which he broke his ankle. Other members of the expedition were Captain J. W. A. Fleming, deputy leader, Sapper R. B. Weeks and myself as leader. The following new peaks were climbed by various group: P 1720 (5643 feet; 65° 51' N, 52° 30' W),P 1500 (4922 feet; 65° 50' N, 52° 34' W), P 1500 (4922 feet; 65° 49' N, 52° 36' W), P 1750+ (5742 feet; 65° 49' N, 52° 10' W), P 1290 (4230 feet; 65° 48' N, 52° 46' W), P 1540 (5053 feet; 65° 48' N, 52° 11' W), P 1470 (4823 feet; 65° 47' N, 52° 04' W), P 800+ (2625 feet; 65° 47' N, 52° 49' W), P 870 (2854 feet; 65° 46½' N, 52° 52' W), P 1200 (3770 feet; 65° 46' N, 52° 49' W), P 1000 (3281 feet; 65° 45½' N, 52° 33' W), P 1080 (3543 feet; 65° 43½' N, 52° 35' W), P 1310 (4282 feet; 65° 43' N, 52° 18' W), P 1000 (3281 feet; 65° 41' N, 52° 36' W), P 1200 (3770 feet; 65° 41' N. 52° 37' W).

J. D. C. Peacock, Major, REME, Army Mountaineering Association

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