American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Umimakut Nunat Region, West Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Umiamakut Nunat Region, West Greenland. Elio Scarabelli, Riccardo Soresini, Marco Zappa and I as leader left Como on July 6, traveling via Milan and Copenhagen to Sondre Stromfjord by air, to Egedesminde by helicopter and to Umanak by boat. There we found the four cases that had been sent three months before by boat. We continued on by icebreaker to 72 ° N. at Umiamakut Nunat. We climbed three virgin peaks in the Pyramidestubben chain, which we called 1. Punta Flavio Longhi (7152 feet) climbed July 13 by the west ridge and July 21 by the northwest face, 2. Cima Nicola Noseda Pedraglio (7480 feet; West Greenland’s second highest peak) climbed July 22 by the west ridge, and 3. Cima Giovanni Noseda Pedraglio (7415 feet) climbed July 22 by the west ridge. We crossed at 1000 feet elevation the 3-mile-wide Umiamako Glacier, one of the world’s fastest moving glaciers, which advances three feet per day. We were lucky enough to be able to cross Kangerdluck Fjord by a boat manned by Eskimos hunting seals to make on July 28-29 another first ascent in the Akuliarusek Peninsula, which we called Pizzo C.A.I. Como (7336 feet). Its northwest ridge was the longest and most difficult climb of our expedition. We all reached all summits.

Rino Zocchi, Club Alpino Italiano

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