Squamish Chief, Unfinished Symphony Route. Finding a completely new route on the oft-climbed Apron on the lower 700-foot extension of the Squamish Buttress took considerable study. Convinced that there was a possible line between the “Diedre” and “Snake routes, Jim Sinclair and I explored a continuing thin crack on the low to medium angle, but highly polished slabs. On our first effort we got a lead above former high-points, marked by a bolt. Rains delayed the completion of the route until November 4. Much of the upper crack involves the tipping-in of pitons, with great faith in the holding power of a few grains of granite. When the crack finally ended, we placed a bolt ladder to complete what is really a lovely route line. Both the free climbing and aid, at times, push the limit, despite the deceptive low angle. (62 pitons and 19 bolts. NCCS IV, F8, A4.)

Fred Beckey