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North America, Canada, Canadian Coast Ranges, Squamish Squaw, Right Wing Route

Squamish Squaw, Right Wing Route. On June 24 and 25 Scott Davis, Al Givler and I made the first ascent of the Squaw via the crack system running through the main dihedral of the west face. Our first problem was locating the beginning of the dihedral at the head of the steep jungle growing against the Squaw’s lower cliffs. Once found, we climbed three pitches directly upward, where the difficulty increased from fourth class to aid. From a spacious belay ledge two long aid pitches, separated only by a hanging belay, curved upward and right. Pitoning was always awkward and slow, as we were forced right by the overhanging left wall of the dihedral. A final vertical and overhanging pitch, again largely aid, proved an awkward if not fitting end to a classic route. We used 67 pitons; two bolts were placed at and above the hanging belay.

Fred Beckey