North America, Canada, Monashee Range, Peaks Southwest of Mount Hallam

Publication Year: 1968.

Peaks Southwest of Mount Hallam. From August 3 to 23 A.C. Fabergé, Talbot Bielefeldt and I revisited the extensively glaciated area a few miles east of Mud Lake and southwest of Hallam. We scaled five prominent peaks, four of which had not previously been climbed. The fifth was a second ascent of Maki’s Peak 8. (See Canadian Alpine Journal, 1965, Vol. 48, p. 69.) Cairns were placed on the “Footstool” and the southern crest of "Triple Crown Peak” on August 4, and on the “Silver Horn” on August 9; all of these lie on the ridge south of Maki’s Peak 8. The ridge extends for five miles as the eastern boundary of the main glacier and icefield. The “Footstool” stands as a signal post in the col leading to the high snowfield and glacier overhanging one branch of Nagle Creek. “Meadow Peak,” our fourth first ascent, climbed on August 13, lies directly west across the ridge at the junction of the main glacier and a tributary fed by the extensive icefield farther west. We also climbed a rock pin at the northern end of the icefield for an unobstructed reconnaissance view of possible routes down the face of the escarpment and of a feasible route to Mount Hallam, without too much loss of altitude, into the headwaters of one branch of Nagel Creek. So far as we know, no party on foot has ever forced an entrance into the region. We were ferried in 20 minutes by helicopter to a campsite near and above the end of the main glacier. (It took eight days to walk out to the east end of Mud Lake.) Although few of these peaks exceed 10,000 feet, the rugged scenery and climbing challenges compare favorably with any in British Columbia. The wild animals have never seen a human being and are completely unafraid. We saw many mountain goats and caribou, which were fascinated by us.

Donald Hubbard