Unnamed Peaks, Western Truce Group. Lured by unclimbed peaks in the western Truce Group, Gretchen Schoenbohm and I joined Bruce Beck in an attempt to climb two peaks called “X” and “Y” by Beck. Beck had made ascents of two unclimbed peaks in the area in 1964 and was familiar with the Hamill Creek Valley. From Argenta townsite on August 8, the three of us began the 10-mile pack-in up the valley of Hamill Creek. The first day we made the cable crossing of the turbulent stream above the gorge, and camped between the two bluffs, about 6 miles from Argenta. The second day the old trappers’ trail deteriorated into devil’s club, nettles, alder slide, pricker trees, and windfall from the lush, big cedar forest. It took 10 hours to cover this 4-mile stretch. Base Camp was set up near “Eight-mile” at 3000 feet. Taking bivouac gear, Beck and I set off to bushwhack northeastward up a long steep ridge and reach the timberline at about 6500 feet (4 hours). From there we crossed into a high basin and into alps southeast of our objectives, and bivouacked at 8000 feet (2 hours). On August 11 we gained the long south ridge of "Y” over excellent granite slabs, following this ridge to the main summit ridge of “Y” (third class). After passing many false summits and pinnacles on the rather rotten ridge, we reached the 10,350-foot twin summits of peak “Y” (3½ hours). Cairns were built on both summits, and a register of this first ascent was left on the higher of the two. Next we descended the west ridge (third and fourth class) to the col, and climbed the east rock and snow ridge of 10,250-foot peak “X” (¾ hour). A rock cairn but no register was found on this summit, so we left our second-ascent record. Then we retraced our steps to peak “Y”, climbed down the east ridge (fourth class) to a tongue of snow above the east glacier, roped down five leads to below the schrund, and descended the rest of the glacier to the bivouac site (4 hours).

Curt Wagner, Simian Climbing Club