American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Purcell Range, Mount Stone, Conrad Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Mount Stone, Conrad Group. This attractive 9990-foot snow peak southwest of Mount Conrad, previously unclimbed, was the goal of our group from the Simian Climbing Club (Laura Jasch, Bill Knowler, Gretchen Schoenbohm, and Curt Wagner). From Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos, we placed a second camp just beyond Bill’s Pass. Before reaching Juniper Lake, we made a steep descent into the valley of the east fork of East Creek, placing an advanced base camp at “Pleasure Island.” A reconnaissance of the valley of the west fork of East Creek and a climb to the 8200-foot col in the “Climbing Range” revealed the need for a fly-camp. On July 30 a fly-camp was established at 5600 feet in the valley of the west fork. The next day we reclimbed the snowfields to the col and contoured around a spur of the main ridge to reach the névé of the MacCarthy Glacier. After crossing the névé and climbing up to the basin north of Mount Stone, we gained the crest of the northeast snow ridge of Stone. Then following this knife-edged ridge for 10 roped leads, we reached the summit rocks. There we built a cairn and placed a register. We had seen tracks below the ridge crest and learned later they had been left by the Harvard Mountaineering Club group of a few weeks before. A hasty retreat was made back down the northeast ridge in order to reach the fly-camp by nightfall, where we bivouacked a second night.

Curt Wagner, Simian Climbing Club

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