American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Purcell Range, Eastpost Spire, New South Face Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Eastpost Spire, New South Face Route. On July 29 Gay Campbell, Phil Nelson, Pete Zvengrowski and I climbed this route with Gay in the lead. The climb began in a prominent corner west of the Kor route. Hard climbing, where it was difficult to place pitons in shallow, dirt-filled cracks, and a traverse with a layback on an underhold led to a sling belay. Another free pitch led to an overhang and another sling belay. The next lead, to the right of the overhang, began with difficult direct-aid nailing behind expanding flakes and finished with a short free section. From here we scrambled up a huge loose chimney and the summit block. We graded the climb F7, A3.

Stan Fuka, Simians

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