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North America, United States, New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, Pendulum Route

Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, Pendulum Route. Paul Doyle and I made the first ascent of this route on September 2. It features excellent rock with fine belay ledges. It would be difficult to retreat after the third pitch because of the overhang of the wall below. A route description follows. Start 100 feet left of the giant roof (the Cathedral), where a large tree grows against a short overhanging face. 1st pitch: Climb between tree and face using aid, continue up to the right to a bushy ledge, and climb the overhanging inside corner (F7) to a large ledge. 70 feet, F7, A1; 2nd pitch: Use aid over the overhang to the right and then up to belay ledge. There is a difficult move in the middle of the aid section. 40 feet, F6, A2; Ascend sloping ramp to left and up flaring inside corner to a bolt. Traverse out on left wall to an aid crack, which ascends overhang. Several difficult moves lead to a short wall, which is climbed to belay ledge. 140 feet, F7, A3; 4th pitch: Descend 15 feet from belay to short inside corner, which is climbed to bolt. Continue left on tension traverse around corner to crack. Climb crack to small belay ledge. 40 feet, F5, A1; 5th pitch: Pendulum 25 feet to crack on left and ascend to remarkable belay ledge. 70 feet, F7, A1; 6th pitch: Ascend friction slab and continue over roof to fine belay ledge. 50 feet, F6, A2; 7th pitch: Follow cracks to top of climb. 140 feet, F5, A1. Adequate for the climb should be a selection of 35 pitons, including a good assortment of angles up to 2-inch. Several 4-inch bong-bongs will prove useful. NCCS IV, F7, A3.

Stephen Arsenault, Harvard Mountaineering Club