American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Teewinot Mountain, Northwest Ridge, Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Teewinot Mountain, Northwest Ridge, variation. On July 29, John Whitesel and Leigh Ortenburger, on the second ascent of the northwest ridge, made a direct variation up the steep section which had been bypassed in 1954. At a point where the original route cut out to the right, this variation continued straight up past a small tower to a difficult F6 or F7 left-facing chimney. Then followed three pitches of near vertical, beautiful F3 rock to the top of a significant but unsuspected tower which is separated from the remainder of the ridge by a 50-foot gap which will not easily be passed. This barrier forced a 150-foot descent to get onto the rib on the far (south) side of the large chimney which leads to the gap mentioned above. This rib then took the party to the summit, which was attained from the northwest. While the lowest portion of the ridge is loose rock, the upper two-thirds is composed of the finest type of solid, golden Teton rock and provides a most interesting, if long, one-day climb.

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