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North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Shadow Peak, North Face, Western Section

Shadow Peak, North Face, Western Section. This route, climbed on July 12 by Ted Wilson and Rick Reese, diagonals across the north face from lower left to upper right starting from the same snow tongue as the old (1950) north face route. After starting directly up the nose of the face from the upper end of the snow, they quickly cut right in an upward traverse for about 180 feet to a very large flake forming a chimney. Left of the flake a short but steep F7 pitch was followed by some 170 feet of easier but crackless rock. Belays here cannot be anchored short of using a bolt. The next 110 feet up a large depression took them to the base of a steep, overhanging wall. From this point they again cut right and up an F5 ledge off the face to the summit ridge. The absence of cracks and occasional loose rock made this route less enjoyable than it might otherwise have been.