American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Death Canyon, Cathedral Rock, "Escape from Death"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Death Canyon, Cathedral Rocks, “Escape from Death.” This fine route (II, F7, A2) was climbed from Death Canyon on July 5 by Rick Reese, Ted Wilson, and Mike Ermarth. Starting in a large, prominent chimney at the base of the southwest ridge of Cathedral Rock, two pitches led past an overhang in the steep polished chimney to a large belay ledge. The third lead began left on easy rock out onto a steep difficult (F7) face where, after angling back to the right, the pitch ended on a small, out-sloping ledge; the belay here was semi-hanging. The slightly overhanging jam crack above was climbed up and right (east) to a more comfortable belay ledge. From the right end of this ledge a long lead beginning with an orange slab ended above on a ledge just beneath an overhanging wall. After scrambling left for 30 feet, the party ascended an obvious chimney. Above, an overhanging A2 jam-crack eased off to free climbing to the end of the route. Descent was made by scrambling up and left to a large tree-covered ledge leading down to the northwest. From the end of this ledge two rappels took them down to the scree leading easily back to the Death Canyon Trail after 7½ hours of enjoyable climbing.

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