American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, New Routes on Daff and Fairview Domes, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

New Routes on Daff and Fairview Domes, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. On July 2 Bob Kamps and I climbed a new route on Daff Dome and called it “The Cooke Book” after the blacksmith-climber, Bruce Cooke. The route ascends the obvious left-facing open-book on the west face and is quite sustained fifth-class climbing. An awkward undercling (5.10) begins the last pitch, which is a long, left-slanting layback to the summit ridge. (III, 5.10). Fairview Dome is the most impressive and clearly visible of the Tuolumne domes. We climbed two new routes on it: Lucky Streaks (IV, 5.9) and Always Arches (IV, 5.10). The former

ascends the discontinuous and parallel crack system quite close to the southern skyline as one looks at the west face. Here again the climbing is over beautiful, high-angle rock and is quite sustained. The Always Arches route, which weaves through thick arches on the northern edge of the northwest face is also sustained—two pitches are 5.10—but not nearly so pleasant. While the firm rock and the excellent views of the high country are delightful, some of the difficult sections under the arches are simply oppressive.

Thomas J. Higgins

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