American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Sharkfin Tower, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1968

Sharkfn Tower, Northwest Face. On July 1, Dan Raish, Woody Savage and I made the first recorded ascent on the north side of this small but prominent peak above Boston Basin. A drop over Sharkfin Col and a short traverse to the east on the Boston Glacier brought us to a steep ice tongue leading up the northwest rib of the tower. After three 150-foot leads on 50°-60° névé, the crest of the arête was reached and the remaining 500 feet were all on the excellent Sharkfin quartz diorite. Climbing was all moderate class 4 with one class 5 lead required to exit from the rib onto the upper north face. This mixed ice and rock route has the advantage of a much more spectacular alpine setting than the more direct south side approaches. Seven hours were required from upper Boston Basin.

Mike Heath

Twin Sisters, Northwest Face of South Twin. On June 13, Reed Tindall

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