Liberty Bell, Direct East Face. The first ascent of this marvelous granite face was made in July 1965 (NCCS V, F7, A4). Since then two more V's have been done, one being a variation of the original route, and the other a hard V on the opposite side of the face. There was still another line that could be done, however, that would go directly up the center of the blankest part of the face. This Kim Schmitz and I climbed in two full days, July 20 and 21; the first Grade VI to be done in Washington. The first attempt on this route began in 1965. The start was then made about 50 feet to the left of where it now begins and required about 60 feet of bolting up a blank section to reach better cracks, which took many days. For nearly two years a rope hung untouched from the top of this pitch. Finally Don McPherson and Ron Burgner decided to give it a try. Late one day they reclimbed the first pitch (by now the fixed rope had nearly rotted off the face) and nailed a difficult bottoming crack that led to a sling belay below a prominent left-arching roof system. They rappelled off, leaving ropes hanging, but a pinched nerve prevented Don’s continuing. In the meantime, Kim and I had made plans to do it after three months in Yosemite. We decided that a bolt ladder so close to the ground was ridiculous and eliminated it by nailing a discontinuous crack about 50 feet to the right. A traverse left brought us to the crack leading up to the roofs. We fixed this pitch and rappelled off, thus reaching Don and Ron’s high point without bolts. Bad weather prevented climbing next morning but we returned two weeks later.

A description of this complicated route follows. Starting to the right of the original Liberty Crack Route, nail a discontinuous crack, using two or three sky hooks to bypass short blank sections, to a shallow cave below a small roof (A3). Free climb left and up onto a loose block (F8) to the start of another crack. Nail out over a small roof on this crack and up until the dihedral starting a series of left arching overhangs is reached (A4); then nail to a belay in slings. The next lead arches up and left to a bolt (A3). Nail and free climb up and right over last part of arches (bad blocks, A2, F8), up a F8 jam, then nail a short arch up and right to a belay from two bolts. Pendulum right across blank face, difficult mantel and more free climbing to a bolt (F9); then nail (A4) up to belay below a large roof in midface. Nail out over roof (A4 at lip) to small tree. Nail series of vertical cracks up and right to stance on a prominent block. Nail (A3) up into left facing dihedral. Start of dihedral involves difficult free climbing (F8) where bolts would otherwise be needed. Nail dihedral to large ledge. Nail crack off left end of ledge then free climb to a stance. Free up right around unobvious corner (F8) then free and nail big loose blocks around right side of huge diamondshaped bulge. Free up ramps left to overhangs. Free and nail over these, then climb right about 80 feet to corner where last few pitches of easy climbing to summit begin. Approximately 250 pitons, 15 nuts, 2 sky hooks, and 4 bolts were placed on the climb. A standard selection of 45 pins from knifeblades to 3-1 ½? and 1-2? angle should be sufficient. NCCS VI, F9, A4.

James Madsen, unattached