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North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier, Misqually Cleaver

Mount Rainier, Nisqually Cleaver. On June 19, Fred Dunham and I climbed the ridge separating the Nisqually Icefall and the Nisqually Ice- cliff. We decided to climb the lower Nisqually Chute before traversing to the ridge because rotten, vertical rock at the ridge’s base ruled out a direct ascent. Suncupping of the snow in the 45°-50° chute provided a staircase of steps. Just above the chute’s narrowest point, we traversed left on snow and over small rock buttresses to the ridge crest. Several small icecliffs on the Nisqually Icefall side of the ridge were bypassed, and we soon reached the ridge’s termination at 12,500 feet. A windless and warm day on Rainier’s summit climaxed an enjoyable climb.

James F. Wickwire