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North America, United States, Alaska, South Peak of Mount Ogilvie, Northern Boundary Ranges

South Peak of Mount Ogilvie, Northern Boundary Ranges. On August 29 Alf Pinchak and I made the first ascent of the south peak of Mount Ogilvie (7500 feet). The main peak had previously been ascended. From our camp on a cleaver overlooking the Vaughn Lewis Icefall at 5500 feet, we worked northward through crevasse fields for several miles before reaching the base of a small icefall southeast of the peak. We slowly climbed this 45° slope on alternating snow and ice. Snow bridges allowed us to cross most of the crevasses, but occasionally we were forced into the ablation moat on the left side of the icefall before we emerged on the crest of the south ridge at 7000 feet. To avoid technical difficulties on imposing gendarmes, we made a long traverse on the east side of the ridge across many large crevasses before we reached a rock gully leading back to the ridge beyond the last gendarme. Half a dozen rope-lengths of class-4 rock brought us to the top of the gully and within 30 minutes we had traversed the snowy ridge to the narrow corniced summit. The ascent required eight hours of continuous roped climbing.

Walter R. Vennum, unaffiliated