American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Mankial

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Mankial. In September a party of four Pakistanis and three westerners under the auspices of the Climbers Club of Lahore visited Swat state to make the fourth ascent of Mankial (18,750 feet). The leader was Mubarak Hussain. I do not know the names of the other Pakistanis, two of whom were ladies. The other three were an American J. R. MacArthur, an Englishman Norman Norris and a German girl Ulrika Fürst. On account of threatening weather, the Pakistanis retreated from Camp I at 17,000 feet, but the others thought they had a good chance and made an attempt. They reached the top late in the evening of September 17 and as the weather was inclement, spent the night on the summit, sheltered by a rock cliff. The next morning they started down, with MacArthur leading the rope, Fräulein Fürst in the middle and Norris last. For some reason MacArthur got off the rope, slipped and went down with an avalanche. His body has not been found. The other two continued to descend and the girl slipped. They both rolled down until Norris was able to stop the fall. Subsequently on the same day Fräulein Fürst died of cold and exhaustion.

Eric Goodwin, Himalayan Club

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