American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trek up Ziwar Valley, Chitral

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Trek up Ziwar Valley, Chitral. Our first expedition was organized as a reconnaissance for future trips by two senior high school teachers, Sadao Karibe and me. We arrived at Chitral by air on July 29, unfortunately without our unaccompanied baggage, which had much of our mountain gear. We started for Shagram with five porters on August 6, along a path of sunshine and nature’s wonders. We arrived there on August 10. This village is a diverging point for two great valleys, the Ziwar and the Uzhnu; we took the former. We made a four-day march to Gram Shal and set up our base at 10,000 feet. We could see Saraghrar, Urgend, Koh-i-Tez and Kotgaz Zom. On August 15 we ascended to 14,100 feet up the west side of the Ushko Glacier, but we found it dangerous to climb without ropes and other climbing equipment. On August 17 we climbed the peak just east of Kuchar Zom, 5000 meters (16,404 feet) high. On the way back we ascended the Buni Gol (valley) with three porters. From our second camp at 12,500 feet we climbed to 14,100 feet, where we struck a steep rock wall with a great snow wall partially visible above. We were forced to give up the climb of Buni Zom without pitons.

Heikichi Odagawa, Japan, Frattera Alpine Club

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