American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Udren Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Udren Glacier. Alfons Hagn, leader, Franz Meiberger, Herbert Schmuck and Arne Stainer of the Lofer Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) wanted to attempt P 6999 (22,963 feet) and the north peak of Istor-o-Nal (23,780 feet) from the southern Udren Glacier. Having analyzed all possibilities, they decided on an attack from the so-called South Atrak Glacier, which really should be called the South Udren Glacier. It lies north of Istor-o-Nal. (Dr. Gruber of Graz has previously called attention to the fact that the name, Atrak Glacier, is incorrectly used in the maps of the Survey of India.) Base Camp lay at the entrance to the glacial cirque that forms the western end of the glacier in which rise, from south to north, the north peak of Istor-o-Nal, P 6999 and P 7291 (Shingeik Zom). Routes to P 6999 and the north peak of Istor-o- Nal were reconnoitered, but objective danger was too great, especially from avalanches, on the 9000-foot wall that rises from the floor of the cirque to the Istor-o-Nal group. The cirque is split by a spur that descends to the northeast from the north peak. From the southern branch of the glacier, on July 3 they climbed the two summits of the spur: P 6130 (20,112 feet, the more southwesterly) by Meiberger and Stainer and P 5820 (19,095 feet) by Hagn and Schmuck. On the north wall of the main cirque, on July 8 Meiberger and Schmuck climed P 6050 (19,849 feet), east of Shingeik Zom.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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