Dir Gol Peaks. Dieter Oberbichler, leader, Dr. Gerhard Rupar, Walter Almberger and Gottfried Schneeberger of the Admont section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) traveled by microbus to Peshawar and flew to Chitral. They left on July 17 and in three days had ascended the Arkari valley to Arkari. From there on the 20th they entered the Dir Gol and on the 21st set up Base Camp at 13,800 feet. The next day they established a high camp in the southern part of the Dir Gol at 16,650 feet. On July 23 they reached a col of 17,700 feet, from which they could look across at the Owir Glacier. On the 25th Almberger and Schneeberger climbed P 5480 meters (17,979 feet), P 5500 (18,045 feet) and P 5490 (18,012 feet). Meanwhile Oberbichler and Dr. Rupar were struggling with P 6240 (20,473 feet), which lies on a ridge which divides the upper Dir Gol into a northern and a southern half. They had to give up 200 feet below the top because of climbing difficulties. The ascent had followed a 70° ice couloir. On the 27th the latter two ascended a side glacier in the southern part of the Dir Gol and climbed P 5585 (18,323 feet). They started back on July 28 and got back to Chitral on the 31st.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub