Asia, Pakistan, P 7291 or Shingeik Zom

Publication Year: 1967.

P 7291 or Shingeik Zom. Members of the Bavarian Chitral Expedition were climbers Thomas Trübswetter, leader, his wife Iris, and Konrad Holch, geographer Dr. Klaus Haserodt, and glaciologists Dr. Wilhelm Kich and Ernst H. Nagel. The latter three made glaciological and morphological studies. The climbing objective was P 7291 meters (23,920 feet) or Shingeik Zom (Smoking Mountain), which may be found on the Quarter Inch map on the ridge which extends east from Noshaq. After driving to Pakistan, they flew to Chitral. The march from Chitral over the Zani Pass to Shagrom in the Tirich valley and on to Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the Barband Glacier lasted from June 22 to 29. The Bavarian group followed to 22,650 feet the 1965 route of the Austrians and South Tyroleans, who climbed 23,688-foot Darband Zom. Camp I was placed on July 6 at 17,000 feet at the point where the valley turns south and Camp II on July 9 at 19,350 feet in an icefall below Noshaq’s north face. The leader had to return to Base from there because of the altitude. Frau Trübswetter and Holch set out on July 12 with bivouac equipment. There were no technical difficulties but the snow was knee- deep. They bivouacked at 22,650 feet. The next day the pair reached the summit of P 7291 but darkness caused a second bivouac at 22,000 feet. From July 14 to 19 the high camps were evacuated and on July 20 they left Base Camp.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub